Volume 2

A cyclopaedia of costume or dictionary of dress, including notices of contemporaneous fashions on the continent : a general chronological history of the costumes of the principal countries of Europe, from the commencement of the Christian era to the accession of George the Third / by James Robinson Planché.

  • Planché, J. R. (James Robinson), 1796-1880.
Date:
1876-1879
Catalogue details

Licence: Public Domain Mark

Credit: A cyclopaedia of costume or dictionary of dress, including notices of contemporaneous fashions on the continent : a general chronological history of the costumes of the principal countries of Europe, from the commencement of the Christian era to the accession of George the Third / by James Robinson Planché. Source: Wellcome Collection.

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    former—English costume temp. Charles I—Patches and “ love-locks’’—Costume during the Commonwealth—Dress of the Puritans—Costume temp. Charles II—Account of his entry into London, 1660—Miscellaneous notices of English costume in memoirs, travels, periodical publications, &c.—Observations on the picture at Hampton Court representing John Lacy, a favourite actor of that date, in three characters—National costume of Scotland—National costume of Ireland—French costume temp. Henry IV. and Louis XIII., 1600-1643—“ Epoque de Richelieu’’—Dis- appearance of the farthingale—Boots universally worn by men of fashion—Reduced in length, 1625—Mode of wearing beard—French costume temp. Louis XIV.—“ Epoque de Mazarin ’’—Capricious application of the term “ canons ” to various articles of attire—Influence of Madame de Maintenon on the fashions—Return to magnificence of apparel at the end of the century—Female costume in France, 1660-1697—Length of trains regulated by the ranks of the wearers Dresses of the middle and lower classes—Champagne, a celebrated ladies’ hairdresser; his insolence— Martin (a woman), his successor—Introduction of the fo7itange—Costume in Spain and Portugal—Notices by Howell and Evelyn—Elaborate descriptions of Spanish costume in 1679 by the Countess d’Aulnoy—Singular custom of wearing spectacles—Costume in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway—Costume in Flanders and Holland— Costume in Germany and Italy—Costume in Venice, 1608-1687—Descriptions by Coryat, Howell, Evelyn, and Misson—Costume of Russia in Europe, 1645-1694—Gradual disuse of armour in the seventeenth century—Latest complete suits in England—Equipment of English cavalry and infantry—Raising of the regiments of the British army Controversy respecting the derivation of the name of the bayonet—Introduction of regular uniform—Grena- diers first brought into our service—Earliest mention of the Marines—Costume of the Yeomen Guard and Gentle- men Pensioners, 1661-1685—Equipment of the French army: the “ Mousquetaires du Roi,” the “Cent Suisses,” Dragoons, and Hussars—Military costume in Spain, Portugal, Germany, Hungary, and Poland—Changes in the robes and decorations of the Order of the Garter—The Order of the Bath—The Order of the “Arm in Armour”— The Order of the Danebrog—The Order of St. Louis—The Order of the Amaranth—The Orders of “ Concord,” “Ladies Slaves to Virtue,” “The Starry Cross,” and “Generosity”—The Order of St. Mark—The Order of the Golden Stole—The Order of St. James in Portugal—The Order of Alcantara—The Order of Calatrava—Attempt to revive the Order of St. Andrew or the Thistle by James II.—Notices of ecclesiastical costume—Dress of Cal- vinist and Lutheran ministers—Vestments of the clergy in the Greek Church—Judicial and official costume in England.. .. .. •• •• •• •• •• •• •• Pages 229—297 CHAPTER IX. THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. Gradual disappearance of picturesque and national distinctions of costum'e—General view of the fashions prevalent in the reigns of Queen Anne and George I.— Court dress in the reign of George II.—Notices of costume in England from 1721 to 1745—Costume in France—“ Annees sombres” of the reign of Louis XIV.—Conventional costume worn by officers of State and gentlemen of the Royal Household—Origin of the hoop—Anecdote respecting its introduction— Varieties in the form of it—Disappearance of the commode—Prevalence of hair-powder—Parisian fashions temp. Louis XV.—Notices of dress from 1724 to 1755—Costume in the French provinces : Brittany, Normandy, Depart- ment of the Pyrenees, of the mouths of the Rhone, Alsace—Italian costume : Rome, Bologna, Genoa, Naples, Florence, Venice—Spanish costume : Aragon, dress of the Mauregatos, La Mancha, the Basque Provinces, Murcia, Valencia, Segovia, Andalusia, Barcelona, Catalonia—Portuguese costume—Costume in Germany : dress of the Emperor and Court of Vienna in 1703; costume of Nuremberg, Ratisbon, Strasburg, Upper Austria, Bamberg, Augsburg, Bavaria, Wurtemberg, Frankfort, Grand Duchy of Baden, the Palatinate, Saxony—Peculiar costume at Altenburg, at Eger in Bohemia, Styria, and the Tyrol—Costume in Switzerland : Canton of Schaffhausen, of Zurich, of Lucerne, of the Thurgovie, of Berne, and the Pays de Vaux—Costume in Holland and Friesland, Norway, Sweden, Iceland, and Lapland—Costume in Russia, Poland, and Hungary—Military costume in Europe, eighteenth century —Introduction of regular uniform in the English army—Scotch regiments in the English service—French army: Cent Suisses, Dragoons, Hussars, Hulans, Militia regiments—Prussian army—European navy—No distinction between the military and naval costume—English naval uniform introduced by George II.—Clerical costume— Vestments of the Church of Rome, of the Greek Church—Distinctions of dress observed by persons of certain professions, military, legal, medical, or clerical—Orders of knighthood : the Black Eagle of Prussia, the White Eagle of Poland, St. Alexander Newsky, St. Januarius of Naples, the Sword in Sweden, the Polar Star, St. Anne of Holstein, St. Catherine of Russia, St. Andrew or the Thistle, the Bath—Alterations in the habit of the Order of the Garter .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. Pages 298—382 CHAPTER X. THEATRICAL, ALLEGORICAL, AND FANCIFUL COSTUME. Dress and masks of the Roman actors—The Mysteries and Miracle Plays of the Middle Ages—Their origin and progress from the fourth century—The dresses furnished by the clergy—The reprobation of the custom by St. Isidore—‘The History of St. George’ enacted in England before the Emperor Sigismund on his visit to King Henry V., 1416—