History of British costume, from the earliest period to the close of the eighteenth century / by J.R. Planché.

  • Planché, J. R. (James Robinson), 1796-1880.
Date:
1847
Catalogue details

Licence: Public Domain Mark

Credit: History of British costume, from the earliest period to the close of the eighteenth century / by J.R. Planché. Source: Wellcome Collection.

    494/518 (page 466)
    In this act, and in the order quoted in the note, we find mention made of the custom of dyeing the shirts and tunics with saffron, said by many writers to have existed in Ireland from the earliest period, but without their quoting any ancient authority in support of their statement. Henceforth we find frequent allusions to it; but it is certainly not mentioned by Giraldus,9 Froissart, or the author of the Natural History before quoted. In the reign of Elizabeth we find Spenser strongly recommending the abolition of “ the antient dress.” The mantle he calls “ a fit house for an outlaw, a meet bed for a rebel, and an apt cloke for a thief.” He speaks of the hood “ as a house against all weathers;” and remarks that, while the mantle enables him to go “ privilie armed,” the being close-hooded over the head conceals his person from knowledge on any to whom he is endangered. He also alludes to a custom of wrapping the mantle hastily about the left arm when attacked, which serves them instead of a target : a common practice in Spain to this day, and probably derived from thence. His objections to the use of mantles by females are as strongly and more grossly urged ; and of the long 9 Unless by “ some colour” and “ various colours ” we are at liberty to conclude that saffron or yellow was amongst them. Had it been the prevailing colour, he would surely have particularized it; and yet, on the other hand, the shirt and truis in the illuminated copy before mentioned are both frequently painted a light yellow or tawny.